The Ultimate 7-Step DIY Engine Oil Change Guide: Everything You Need to Know From Combustion to Garage Floor

Combustion happens when a series of mini-explosions take place. Chemical energy is converted with the help of fuel, air, and heat to produce mechanical energy that then moves the car. Over time, the extreme heat, friction, and combustion byproducts break down this oil, turning it thick, dark, and sludgy.

The Four-Stroke Combustion Cycle

Most engines operate on a four-stroke cycle within the cylinders:

• Intake Stroke: Pistons will move downwards to create space for the intake valve, drawing in a mixture of air and fuel within the combustion chamber (housing of the pistons).
• Compression Stroke: Intake valve closes, and in turn the pistons move back upwards. The air-fuel mixture is then pressed into a tight space for both an increase of temperature and pressure.
• Power Stroke: The spark plug fires an electric arc that burns both the air and fuel mixture. The rapid expansion of the gases produced forces the pistons back down, turning the crankshaft and driving wheels.
• Exhaust Stroke: When the pistons travel back upward, the exhaust valve opens to welcome the gases spent from the cylinder and into the exhaust system.

All this takes place with the help of engine oil. Pure, fresh oil makes a vehicle move smoother, smoothing the metal parts within the engine. Engine efficiency is improved because the spark plugs and moving components don’t have to work as hard. Oil that isn’t old, sludgy, and thick also helps prevent overheating.

Safety and Preparation

Before you begin, always ensure your safety: park on a flat surface, chock your wheels, and secure the car on sturdy jack stands—never rely solely on a hydraulic jack. Let the engine cool down slightly so you don’t burn your hands on hot oil or exhaust components, and grab your safety glasses.

Step-by-Step Oil Change Guide

First and foremost, I’d advise you to carry the right spanners: 14mm, 17mm, 19mm, 22mm—these are the most common.

Depending on your comfortability, look for either a mat or cardboard box to lie down on. Find the perfect position for your arm—this will prevent you from having cramps in the arm, and also will help you not cause damage to your draining plug.

Also, be sure of how many liters are needed for your vehicle. If it’s less than 5ltrs, you can carry a bucket or dish of that exact measurement. If your engine is on the larger side, have two or more buckets beside you.

Most vehicles are anti-clockwise, so I’d advise you to be in the opposite direction for this. That means your right, by the way.

Look at your engine, see where it ends. The pan underneath your engine is what you’re dealing with. The other pan, on the other side is for the gearbox—don’t get it mixed up, please.

After spotting the draining plug, position your spanner correctly; it should be straight, and the entire bolt should be within the hole of your spanner. If the spanner is positioned in any other form that isn’t straight, you’ll damage the corners of the bolt which will be another inconvenience for you.

Pull the spanner to your left. If it’s too tight, look for some type of leverage.

Have you managed?

Okay, next thing you should do is spot the oil filter. Loosen it the same way you did with the bolt. Loosen it to the left, and add a new one.

Be sure the oil has completely drained from your engine before screwing it back on. Be sure it’s tight, but not too tight as the bolt can snap off.

Look for the lid on top of the engine—that is if you didn’t already. You can also unscrew the lid before draining the oil to help it flow faster.

Carefully add the clean oil in your engine. Measure the amount added using the dipstick—usually mounted beside the engine.

Done?

You can turn the car on now. Check if there are any leaks before driving it anywhere.

Have you ever tried changing your oil and how did that turn out?